Academic dress at the University of Oxford is a tradition deeply rooted in the university’s long history and is still used today for formal occasions, examinations, and ceremonies. The dress code is known as “sub fusc,” a term derived from the Latin “sub fuscus,” meaning “dark” or “dusky.”
Oxford’s academic dress reflects the university’s centuries-old traditions and serves as a visible reminder of its rich history. The use of formal academic dress adds to the ceremonial atmosphere of university events and links the present day to the university’s medieval past. It is also a way of distinguishing the academic status of students and faculty.
Wearing the proper academic dress is strictly enforced at Oxford. For example, students who arrive for exams or formal ceremonies without the correct sub fusc or gown may be denied entry or face disciplinary action. This adherence to the dress code is part of the university’s longstanding traditions. Oxford’s academic dress is, therefore, a visible symbol of the university’s rich heritage and status as one of the world’s oldest academic institutions. Let’s take a look at the different options you might encounter in Oxford.
1. Sub Fusc
Standard Sub Fusc: This is worn by students and faculty on formal occasions such as matriculation, graduation, and university examinations.You can choose from:
- A dark suit with dark socks (in this context, dark means dark grey, dark blue or black)
- A dark skirt with black tights or stockings
- Dark trousers with dark socks or dark hosiery (ocks, tights, or stockings must be worn at all times and must fully cover the ankle. There should be no visible gap between the bottom of your trousers or skirt and the top of your socks or stockings).
- A dark jacket, if needed, to be worn under the gown.
- Black shoes.
- A plain white collared shirt or blouse with sleeves.
- One of the following neckwear options: a white bow tie, black bow tie, full-length black tie, or black ribbon.
Students also wear an academic gown over their attire and a mortarboard or soft cap, which is carried during the ceremony. The mortarboard may be worn while outside, but it should be removed and carried when indoors.
2. Gowns
Gowns at Oxford vary depending on the wearer’s academic status:
- Commoners’ Gown: Worn by most undergraduate students (BA, BFA, BTh, MPhys etc), this a black gown made of cotton or synthetic fabric with a turned-over collar. It is sleeveless, featuring streamers on each side with square pleats that extend down the full length of the gown, reaching the hips.
- Scholar’s Gown: Worn by students who have received academic scholarships, it is longer than the commoner’s gown and has fuller sleeves. It is black gown made from Russell cord or synthetic fabric, designed in a full style with a gathered, stiffened yoke at the back and short open sleeves. The gown should extend down to the wearer’s knees.
- Advanced Degree Gowns: Graduates (e.g. MSc, MPhil, DPhil etc.) wear gowns specific to their degree level, such as the Bachelor’s, Master’s, or Doctoral gown. These gowns become more elaborate with each level, particularly the doctoral gowns, which are trimmed with scarlet or other vibrant colours.
You must wear sub fusc along with your academic gown and mortarboard or soft cap for all examinations. Your college or department can provide guidance on which specific gown is appropriate for your academic level.
3. Hoods
The hood worn with the academic dress is an indicator of the wearer’s degree and status within the university. Each degree has a different hood design, often distinguished by color, lining, and trim.
Bachelor’s degree hoods are typically simple in design, while Master’s and Doctoral hoods become more intricate and colorful, with specific colors indicating different fields of study or faculties.
4. Specific Ceremonial Dress
For graduation ceremonies, students wear their sub fusc, but during the conferral of degrees, they change into the gown, hood, and cap appropriate to the degree they are receiving.
Fellows and senior university officials wear more elaborate academic dress, often incorporating fur, silk, and velvet into their robes, especially during formal events like university processions or high-level ceremonies.
5. Doctoral Dress
Doctors of Philosophy (DPhil) and other doctoral graduates wear elaborate scarlet gowns with colorful facings and trim, typically in dark blue or black. These gowns are among the most eye-catching in Oxford’s academic wardrobe.
On less formal occasions, doctors may wear a plain black gown without the scarlet, though still specific to their degree.
Common Questions About Oxford's Academic Dress
Doctors of Philosophy (DPhil) and other doctoral graduates wear elaborate scarlet gowns with colorful facings and trim, typically in dark blue or black. These gowns are among the most eye-catching in Oxford’s academic wardrobe.
On less formal occasions, doctors may wear a plain black gown without the scarlet, though still specific to their degree.
Who buys the academic dress?
Students are responsible for purchasing their own academic dress, usually at the beginning of their studies. There are several outfitters in Oxford who specialize in sub fusc and academic gowns. Students are required to buy their gown, cap, and sub fusc attire (shirt, tie, skirt/trousers, etc.) for formal university occasions like matriculation and examinations.
When is academic dress worn?
Academic dress is required on several formal occasions, including:
- Matriculation: The formal ceremony marking a student’s entry into the university.
- Examinations: All students must wear sub fusc for university exams.
- Graduation: Students wear sub fusc when receiving their degrees, and they don the gown, hood, and cap appropriate for the degree being conferred.
- Formal events: Some colleges have formal dinners or chapel services that may require the wearing of gowns.
Do all students wear the same gown?
No, different students wear different gowns depending on their academic status:
- Undergraduates: Commoners wear a short black gown, while scholars wear a longer, fuller version.
- Graduate students: Graduates wear specific gowns that correspond to their level of study (e.g., Bachelor’s, Master’s, Doctoral).
- Doctors: Doctors of Philosophy and other doctoral graduates wear distinctive scarlet gowns for ceremonial events.
What is sub fusc?
Sub fusc is the formal attire required to be worn beneath the academic gown. It includes a dark suit or skirt, white shirt or blouse, black shoes, and a black tie or ribbon. For formal events, students wear this under their gown, and the full ensemble is required for examinations and ceremonies.
Can you rent academic dress?
Yes, academic dress can be rented for specific occasions, especially for students who may not want to purchase a gown. Graduation ceremonies are a common time for students to rent gowns, particularly at the doctoral level where gowns are more elaborate and expensive.
